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Gary's HP Tuners Basic Tuning 101
Gary's Newbie Guide  






Last Modified 7/13/2006


Tuning Basics V1.2


For whatever reason, the W-Body / 3800 series cars have been almost all but left in the cold when it comes to the "art" of tuning.


What is tuning? Well, in a nutshell, tuning is the practice of "dialing in"  or better enhancing parameters inside of the PCM. We all know that there are a few choices in aftermarket PCM's, and now we also have a few choices in the Aftermarket PCM - Programmers.  Tuning consists of making changes to tables that effectively run our cars, they are the stats that define how effective our huge air pump (the engine) will be.


Tuning is NOT something that you should just jump into. Trust me. In order to tune a car properly to meet the demand of your individual mods, it may take several hundred miles of driving, and many tries at it to make sure it is right, and that is only for ONE season of four. If you are not willing to put in the time, sweat and effort to learn to tune your vehicle PROPERLY, hit the little X in the upper right hand corner now, else hang on and we will take a shot at building a Guide to Tuning a 3800 Series W-Body.



  1. Disclaimer and Considerations

    A. All Images contained within this document are the intellectual property of HP Tuners, LLC. Upon request, this site will remove all images.

    B. Use of this information incorrectly may cause damage to your vehicle. Neither HP Tuners nor the author take any responsibility for it's use, or results from it's use.

    C. This document is completely independent of HP Tuner, LLC. There is no affiliation what so ever.


II.    Assumptions

A.) It needs to be very clear that tuning via Narrowband Oxygen Sensors is only going to get you in the ballpark, and that is only if it is functioning properly. To "really tune" a Wide Band O2 must be used, either in conjunction with a Dynamometer or by itself for more experienced tuners.


B.) This is a basic guide, and is not the end all of tuning instructions. Everyone's cars react slightly / moderately different to modification. Please be sure to read as much as you can and understand everything before you make any changes. Ask questions on your local forum and get the experienced tuners to help you out.


C.) There is no real bible to tuning these cars. What works for you, may not work for others.


D.) In the guide below, I personally prefer to use MS Excel to make my calculations.  There are options in the various tuning packages which include the ability to add , subtract, and multiply more that a single cell. There are also included many different calculators to perform different functions. I just prefer to use what I am personally comfortable with. Please do the same for yourself.


E.) This guide will address VE tuning, in SD mode. Although some may argue the validity, the VE table is not referenced only in the event of a MAF failure. It is referenced in nearly all airflow, fueling, and calculations. If you choose to pass over this section your tune may not be correct.


III.    Scan tool data collection and understanding it


A.) Scan tool data can be saved in two ways. In the native HP Tuners file format, or by exporting the data to a comma separated file. Figure III.1 below is a chart display from the HP Tuners data collection scan tool. It lays out information in a very easy to read display with all of the parameters that we need to look into.


Fig III.1






B.) This option, the CSV file is another method for looking at one or two items, but does not show the curve of timing, spikes in KR and other things that we need to visualize in order to comprehend. You will more than likely find this type of file throughout the Forums, as it is easily attached to messages and can be shared across the internet user community freely. See fig III.II





























































IV.   Long Term Fuel Trim Adjustments


A.) As we can see from the Diagrams above, our LTFT's are completely outside of the desired range values of -5 to +5


All + numbers indicate a LEAN condition

All - numbers indicate a RICH condition. 

The desired LTFT cell values of "0", indicating that the car is running well, not rich, not lean.


B.) What causes it?  Changes in Airflow, or fueling conditions. Cold Air intakes can change it.


C.) What does it mean?  It means (in this case) that the car is running very rich, and by having these negative values, fuel is being pulled by the PCM because of it. If the numbers were + instead, it would of course mean the opposite, aka adding fuel.


D.) Well, isn't that what it is supposed to do?

     Yes, and No. When you go WOT, the PCM will lock in at the last value it was at. So let's say that you go WOT at 60 MPH and the LTFT was at -16, that means that it will pull that value of fuel away from the Performance Enhancement area, thus leaning the car out. This can be very dangerous in cases where the LTFT's are off by extreme amounts.


E.) OK, So how do I fix it?

    I wish this was an easy answer, but it is not, It will take a lot of time, patience, and effort to correct properly. The first thing we have to do is get the car into Speed Density mode. Again, you should decide whether or not you want to perform the VE tuning in SD mode. This means that a different set of tables take control, leaving the Mass Air Flow Sensor basically out of the loop. The first thing we have to do is make sure that when we go into SD mode. The car will stay running. To do this, we need to copy our High Octane Timing table over to the Low Octane Timing table. The car will fail over to the LOW upon MAF failure. Secondly, we need to disable PE mode.


In HPT go to VCM Editor, File, Open. Select your bin file. Then Engine, Spark Control. Look below:



Save these settings out to an excel file, so that later into the tuning work you can replace the values back.




Select all of the cells with the mouse in the HIGH OCTANE TABLE, right click, and choose COPY.


Select all of the cells in the LOW OCTANE TABLE, right click and choose PASTE.


This will overwrite all of the values in the LOW table.


Now close those windows, and choose Engine, Fuel Control.

Choose the POWER ENRICH Tab, and select HOT.

Look below:



Select all of the cells from 0 - 6400




Enter a value of 100, and click on the "=" sign. All of the values will now show 100, and the vehicle will be prevented from entering into PE Mode under all throttle conditions under 100%.




Next we will force the MAF to fail. You can unplug it instead, however this method is just as simple. To make the MAF "Fail" we will set the MAF failure values to "0". Click on Engine Diag's and set it to a value of zero.





Save this bin as another name, like SD_Bin.bin, and then write the calibration data to the vehicle


Open up the HPT VCM Scanner tool. Choose, Tools, VCM Control, then select Fuel and Spark. Start the scanner, and then select RESET FUEL TRIMS. Do this only one time, and do not repeat this step.


See below:



You need to drive for a minimum of 50 miles, never hitting 100% throttle. Try to drive in the city some, and on the high way some at varying speeds. The goal is to collect data in as many LTFT cells as possible so that we can get an idea of what needs to be changed.


Here is how the Histogram will look once you have driven for a while:



It is very important that you save the Scan log before shutting off the car, or else you will be going for yet another very long drive. Save the data to .hpl, and then export it to excel. Once the scan is saved, shut off the car, and take the Laptop into the house. -


Open the HPT VCM Scanner tool, Logging, open Log File. Choose the 50 mile scan you just did.


Now, on the Histogram window, choose LTFT.   Select the average button.  Right click  and choose load all data.   It may take some time depending on your laptop speed.

Once the histogram is loaded, minimize the windows down to the taskbar and open up HPT VCM Editor.


Choose File, Open, and select your original bin. Choose Engine, Airflow. Select PRIMARY VE vs. RPM vs. MAP. See Below:



Look at the Histogram above that contains the scan data from the 50 mile drivet.


Now what we need to do is correct the VE table by adjusting it using the values from the scanner log. For instance, in the log, in cell 20 X 1200 we see a value of -4 This value needs to be deducted from the VE table at the 20 X 1200 cell. In this case we have a -4 value that has to be subtracted from a value of 57. 57 - 4 = 53.  Select that individual cell, enter in the corrected value, and hit the "=" key. Now repeat this process for every other cell that has a value in it above in the scanner log.


Take your time, and be careful to match the corresponding rows and columns. CHECK your work before saving.  




Lets see how it looks. Hit the 3D Surface tab in the VCM Editor. See below:


Does it look like this:                                                                                                                      





If your table no looks like the example above you still have some work to do.


I am going to assume it looks like the example above. 


Click back to the TABLE EDITOR tab, and click on smoothing once. Click back to the 3d tab and see how it looks. It should be better, like this:


Save the bin as SD_Mode_2.bin and write the calibration data to your vehicle.


Begin another drive, and try once more to hit as many cells as possible. Watch the live display on the scanner as you are driving so you can get an idea of where you have and have not hit in the table. Get a good 30 minutes of driving - **** DO NOT RESET THE FUEL TRIMS AGAIN ****. Save the scan log again, and repeat the process until all of the values are in between -5 and +5. This process may have to be repeated several times to get the table to look smooth, and be in the -5 to +5 range.


Once your table looks good, and all of the trims are in the proper range of -5 to +5, go to the VCM Editor - Engine, Fuel, and select the PE tab again. Re-enable your PE mode to whatever you like it at.


Now re-enable the MAF in the Engine Diag's section to 11500.


Save the bin again to something like TRIMS_DIALED_SPRING0X_SD_MODE.bin and write the calibration data to the vehicle.





Now Get a good solid 30 minutes again and hit as many of the cells as possible. They will more than likely be off - don't worry about it yet. What we have to do next is find out how far off the calibration of the MAF is from the VE table.


In our test case, the Mass Air Flow sensor is causing the rich condition, denoted by all of the negative LTFT's. We already KNOW FOR SURE that the VE table is correct, after all it is the backup to the MAF. What we need to do now is re-calibrate the MAF table using these values.  Lets take for example cell number 3200 X .8 which has a value of 17.  In our scans in SD Mode we have a value of -1. What is the difference in %? Good question! There is no equation that will accurately calculate it. We know that this vehicle is running rich. We know that by reducing the MAF table (called scaling it) we will cause the MAF to be Calibrated to the right values. The trick is to discover where the MAF curve needs to be set at. This is a painful process, but there is currently no other way.  It is very obvious that we are running rich in this example, by a pretty steady amount right? Well, lets look at the MAF table breakdown, and decide what we need to do.


The MAF table is broken up into three major groups, Idle, Cruise, and WOT. Here is the breakdown:

MAF Value in Hz Range
1000-1999 Idle
2000-2999 Idle
3000-3999 Idle
4000-4999 Cruise
5000-5999 Cruise
6000-6999 Cruise
7000-7999 Cruise
8000-8999 Cruise
9000-9999 WOT
10000-10999 WOT
11000-11500 WOT
Why did we stop here? MAX Max in V6


Now that we know what the MAF readings are we can go back to our Excel Log and Sort by RPM, then by MAF Frequency in Hz


Here is an example:


Now as you can see, we have an accurate depiction of what RPM level corresponds to what MAF level in Hz Select all of the cells from 1000 - 1999 and get an average. Do the same for 2000 - 2999 all the way until you reach 8000 - 8999 - Do not change the wot values.


In my example, from 2000 - 2999 I have an average of 2835.25  Open VCM Editor, open your bin, then choose Engine, Airflow, and select MAF Air Flow vs. Frequency. Look at the value for the 2835  ( or closet to it)



The value is currently set at 0.84 & we know that this car is rich at idle - now that we know that 2000 - 2999 is in the IDLE range, and we have a value of -XX. The average of all of the cells in the rpm range at Idle from our table above is nearly -19, so by trial and many errors, I decided to use 2% scaling per check to monitor for the drop in the -xx numbers as they get closer and closer to "0". Using the average range of 2000 - 2999 we have validated that the cell in position 2075 is running rich, so select that range of cells and reduce it by 2%. Use excel (or any program of your choice) to do this...Copy all cells in the IDLE  MAF range (1000 - 3999) from the MAF table and paste them into excel. Create a simple formula to scale them by 2%, and then paste them back into the MAF table. Write the bin to the car and begin to log AT AN IDLE. Are the LTFT's back in shape in the idle range? If not, then take off another 2% and write the bin again. Keep doing this until you get back to the -2 to +2 range, keeping track how much you had to reduce in total. Because our average LTFT is close to -19 we just need to get the idle percentage calculated, so we can apply it to the entire cruise range (4000 -8999).




Copy the data back into the MAF table, you may need to repeat these steps multiple times depending on how badly calibrated your MAF is.


Lets say it took 4 tries, at 2% each time to get the Idle LTFT's back to -5 to +5


Apply the same calculations for the cruising range of the MAF, starting this time at 1.08 scaling. It should be pretty close, and take less tries. If you take off too much, just start to ADD 1% back until it is right on.


Here is the new Curve of the MAF looking at it in 2d Mode:


If you have any "spikes" like this one, just click on the red line itself, and choose the closet adjustment point, and use the mouse to pull it down into a smooth curve.


Drive the vehicle again, and Scan for LTFT's and see how close you have come to getting them dialed in. Also - give it a WOT blast or two and watch how they now lock on at a nice "0"


As I said, you may have to spend many hours getting it perfect. It took me many separate runs to get mine dial in, and many more at the track to fine tune them. DON'T GIVE UP - Be patient and it will fall into line.


If you happen to be one of the people with a car running LEAN, instead of scaling using /1.02 use *1.02 and the MAF curve will be raised to the appropriate percentages in order to add the fuel you need to get LTFT's in the -5 to +5 range.


This is BY FAR the hardest part of the tune, but it is also the most important. If you do not dial these numbers in correctly you will never have a well tuned vehicle. It really is just that simple. I decided to "ignore" this part of the tune precisely because there was no real documentation on how to do it on a V6, and I struggled and cursed for over 8 months. Now I have it done, and done right.



REMINDER:  You may want to simply tune once for each season, or you may want to get a little more in depth and have a bin for certain degree ranges.  Personally I have been creating "tuned" bins for every 10* of temperature. I have one for 80* - 90*F, one for 70* - 80*F and as the weather becomes cooler, I will add more. It will give you the best "library" of bins for the track. I personally feel that taking the time to build a good solid library of bins is the best choice if you are serious about tuning your vehicle for Racing conditions. Since I started I have gone from a personal best of [email protected] to a [email protected] , both in 80* + weather!


V.   Further Tuning


A.) Lets take a moment to talk about, and decide upon a course of action in regards to Cylinder Skew. 


Many people will leave the Cylinder Skew table alone, mainly because they don't know what to change. Some others will tell you that it is an absolute MUST in tuning the 3800. I have had the help of a few of the better tuners, and have decided to modify mine to the following:



What this does is adjust the amount of "skewing" or balancing of delivery to the cylinders. The skew numbers multiply the calculated Injector Pulse Width for that cylinder. Numbers higher than 1.0 mean more fuel, less than 1.0 mean less. So in my personal example, I am adding additional fuel to 3, 1, & 5 to balance it all out. This is all done to make sure that each cylinder is balanced, and gets it fair and equal share of fuel . I am using values that were given to me to test with by a certain Impala owner. Yours may be different.


Firing Order: 165432


VI.    Knock Retard and WOT PE Tuning


So we now have our LTFT's all dialed in (at least for these weather and fuel conditions). There are some things to note:


    A.) By adjusting or Scaling the MAF other things have been effected. You will more than likely notice that the timing is lower than what you are used to seeing - This is normal!

    B.) Because the timing is different now, you will more than likely not see much if any KR. As you add timing back 1* at a time it will probably come back - This is Normal!

    C.) The car may shift at different points than it used to. We will correct and compensate for this later in the guide - It is Normal!

    D.) Your AFR may have changed slightly - This is not only Normal, but more than likely Good!



It is now time to get your WOT PE tune done. What this does is makes sure that we are not getting too high, or too low O2 numbers. The correct numbers are up for debate, but in the V6 world, under Forced Induction we would like to see between 930 and 940. Any values over 960 are considered rich, and must be leaned out. Any values under 890 are considered lean and must be richened. This is very easy to do via the VCM Editor.


Open your bin in the VCM Editor. Go to Engine, Fuel, and select the PE tab. Now select the Add vs. RPM option. It should look like this:



Now open up your VCM Scanner and open the last log file you have. Click on the Histogram, AFR. Then click on the "A" in the histogram menu, to show the Average. Right click again and choose load all data. It should look like this:




 The only thing we are concerned about is the row under 140.

 As you can see, this example shows average values of 926



So, now we know that the car is running slightly LEAN and we need to add a little fuel in order to richen it up slightly. This is where the PE vs. RPM table comes into play.  Look at the histogram data above - see that our O2 values in row 14 start at 2000 rpm's, and follow through all the way to 6000 rpms.  We need to richen this are via PE in order to get the O2's back up to 930 - 940.  In the HPT VCM Editor, click on all of the cells that cover that RPM range like this:
























Once you have all of the cells selected, enter in a value of -0.10 and click on the "+" button.


We are essentially "adding" PE fuel to richen the WOT O2's. If the situation were reversed, and you car was already rich, we would have added 0.10 instead to slightly lean it out.


The closer to "0" the leaner it will get. The further into the negatives, the richer it will get.


The reason that we are doing it here, and NOT in the Injector tables is that this will effect the calculated AFR values, where as doing it in the IPW tables will effect the car during ALL driving.


Save the table, and write the calibration data to your vehicle. Go out and do a few more WOT runs to the maximum safe speed you can, scanning along the way. When done, repeat the process and add -0.10 increments at a time until the WOT o2's are within the range of 930 - 940. Do not be concerned with any KR at this point.


VII.   On to KR (Knock Retard)


A.) Knock Retard, or KR is what the majority of us buy and install mod's to combat. In return for combating KR we are able to adjust things like timing control and fuel to get more power in the ranges we need it. KR is caused by pre-ignition, or detonation. It happens inside of the cylinder, igniting BEFORE it was supposed to. The biggest contributing factor to KR is heat caused by boost.  So, with that said, we need to discuss next how we can get rid of all of the KR. NOT just "most" of it, ALL of it. Any KR seen after completing this part of the tune, is the last section you will see. We just cannot continue to tune with ANY KR present.


B.) Is there a "Safe" amount of KR?

      NO. There is a site that says 3-5* is "healthy" -  ANY KR at all is bad. Plain and simple.


C.) What other things can cause KR?

      Heat is the obvious one, but it can also be caused by too high backpressure, torque management, and crappy fuel.


D.) But I have all of the supporting mod's, and have spent thousands to see no KR, yet I still have it!

      That is why we are going to demonstrate how to "tune" out all of the KR from your car. Each car is different and will react differently to mod's. Believe it or not, getting rid of all the KR is fairly easy to do. Just needs a little tuning.


E.) Open up our scan log, the last one you did that contained a couple of the WOT blasts we used to tune the trims. Open HPT VCM Scanner, open the log file. On the histogram, choose the "+" to show MAXIMUM values. Click on the Retard Tab and then right click, choose load all data. It should look like this:






























This is just to be used as an example. Yours may look very different, and may have KR in more or less areas, and may be better or worse. In either case, we need to get rid of it all.


Seeing that we do in fact have KR present says that we will have to tune it out. There are different ways to do this.


We are going to take the most stable, and professional road to get rid of it. Some guys will just tell you to "add some fuel up top" - That will work to quench the KR, but will in no way enable you to get an accurate tune, with more power in the entire range. It is a simple way to kill KR - YES, but not the best way.


The first thing we need to do is write down each cell value, and the amount of KR in each. It will be easier to tune it out that way.


Now that we know where the KR is present, lets get rid of it. Open up HPT VCM Editor, File, open - choose your latest bin.

Now go to Engine, Spark Advance, High Octane




























 Now, looking at our list above, lets start to tune out the KR.

 Knowing that 2800 X .80 = 2 we can move to that cell, and subtract 2 from it's value.

 So - the value is currently 15 in that cell, so click on that cell and in the "add" box choose -2. It will now read 13. Bye Bye KR in that cell!


 Continue down the list above and remove the KR from all of the cells.  Once you are done, save the table. Select all of the cells, and copy them to the Low Octane table, then save the bin, and write it to your car.


 Take it for a drive, and make sure you are easy on it until it reaches the proper ECT. Once you hit 180* ECT, or 195* ECT with a stock thermostat, run a few WOT runs from "0" MPH.


                                         DO NOT DO IT FROM A ROLL.


 Get a few solid runs to the maximum safe speed and make sure you are logging it. Go through the log file again in HPT VCM Scanner and see if there is still any KR. If there is, then repeat the process until there is none present.




VIII.   Torque Management and Transmission Settings



A.) Now to add to the "fun" of driving the car. We are going to disable all of the torque management, and set the shift points and rev limiter to a more "suitable" level...


Start by opening up the HPT VCM Editor, and select your most recent bin.

Now choose Engine, Torque Management. It should look like this:



Start by going to the Max Engine Torque vs. RPM vs. Gear.

Select all of the cells, click the "replace by" and enter in 640, then commit and save the table. It should now look like this:



Next, go to Max Torque vs. Gear, and do the same thing. The result will look like this:



Next, lets go to the Max Torque vs. RPM, do the exact same thing, commit and save the table. See below for the results:



Continuing on, lets go to the Retard vs. % Torque Reduction. Change all of the values to a value of 5. This will limit the amount of Torque % reduction to 5%. Take a look:



On to the Injector Disable table. Change all of the values to "0"  This will prohibit the PCM from disabling fuel from any of the injectors under massive torque requirements. Here is how it looks:



OK, now select the Abuse Tab. Make it look like the picture below:




B.) Close the Engine Window. Open Transmission, A4 Shift Speed


****Now keep in mind, the Regal GS that we are using does not have a performance shift button. With that said, we will be editing different tables in order to modify the Rev limiters and Shift Points.  If you DO have the Performance Shift button on your car you will need to modify both the NORMAL and the PERFORMANCE tables to match. If you do not have it, you will only be editing the NORMAL tables.****


See below:



A lot of this is personal preference. However, remember this: In order to actually EFFECT any of the actual shift points, two conditions MUST be met, or it will fail to the Rev Limiter.

For example, lets say you want first to shift at 30 MPH at WOT. In order to make that happen, the WOT Shift Speed vs. Shift would have to be set at 30 MPH AND the RPM must be set at the point where 30 MPH falls into in 1st Gear at WOT, let's say 3200 RPM's. If you have a Rev limiter set at 6000 RPM's it WILL NOT shift until 6000 RPM's REGARDLESS of the set Speed!


If you simply want the Trans to shift at 5900 - 6000 RPM's set the rev limiter to those values, and leave the other tables stock. If you have dyno'd your vehicle and actually KNOW where the power band is for max HP and Torque then of course we will want to set the combination of SPEED and REV Limiter to obtain shifts at that point!


For instance, I know that my car absolutely kicks ass at 4000 - 4500 RPM. I want it to shift slightly higher than that so that during the shift-rpm-drop I will be right back in that power band again when all is said and done. Therefore, I may set my shift SPEED to 44 in first gear, and set the RPM Rev Limiter to 5300 (which is about 44 MPH on this car). This will give me a solid shift at 44 MPH @ 5300 RPM. During the shift, RPM's will drop to somewhere around 4400 RPM or so, which is RIGHT where my power is in Second Gear. I would apply the same logic to the 2-3 shift.


For the 2-3 shift, I know that my power is a little higher, and that I will run out of track before the 2-3 shift. Therefore, I want the rev limiter to be set at 5900 and the speed to somewhere around 90 or so MPH. This will make sure that I won't whine the car out, but will still go the whole 1/4 mile before it shifts into third.


Here are some examples :





































These are the NORMAL tables. Remember if you have the Perf Shift button, you will also have to edit the Performance Tables as well, otherwise you will se NO DIFFERENCE in Rev's and Shift Points.



You are going to have to play around and decide for yourself where you want the car to shift, and at what RPM's - It all depends on your W-Body's mod's, and how aggressive you want to be on the transmission. For example, the Regal has a power band that really drops off above 5000 rpms, where as the GP has a much more aggressive HP curve, but no where near the Torque.



My suggestion is to start with similar values as you see to the right, and then tweak them during a few Track runs to get the power to the wheels, and the shifts to the tranny at the point where YOUR car needs them. Just be careful going above 6000 RPM's on the Regals. Some have reported pretty bad shuddering above 6000.  Also be SURE to have good fluid and a well maintained tranny filter! Also highly recommended is an Auxiliary Transmission cooler. That $40 part can actually DOUBLE the life of the transmission.


C.)  For the Cat-less folks:


There is an option to add additional fuel in the Fuel Section under Engine, Fuel Control, COT / Lean Cruise. This table can be scaled back for those who do not have a Cat. This table helps to prevent Catalytic Converter overheating, and obviously is unnecessary for cat-less setups. Take a look at how it looks stock:



And here is the modified table that I use:




Don't Forget!!


Remember what we did earlier? Well, we need to change back the PE mode so that it engages back at where we want them to. Set the values back to whatever you choose.





Also - Remember to grab all of the Low Octane table data from the Excel backup and put it back in the Low Octane Table.






I hope this has been helpful to you in learning some of the basics of tuning a W-Body / 3800. I will continue to tweak it to be better as time allows. I welcome all input and will be happy to make additions or changes as the V6 community learns more and more about better, or improved methods. Send any input you have to [email protected]


And finally - This guide was written by me by reading and learning. If you would like to share it out, that is fine, but please do not make changes to it. I will retain the master copy. If you would like something better explained, corrected, or to have something added, please let me know and I will get it done.




HPTuners: a.k.a - Devilgog9999

RegalsGS.org a.k.a. - 2Fast4U

UNYCGP a.k.a. - 2Fast4U

ClubGp a.k.a. - Devildog9999











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