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Thread: L36/L67 internal question for turbo build

  1. #1

    L36/L67 internal question for turbo build

    Hey, I'm sure this is a question asked all the time and im sorry if this is the wrong place for it or anything but im new to the forum thing. I have a 2000 Firebird V6 with the y87 package(same differential, brakes and steering rack as v8 models) I have to rebuild my motor and i have two garrett T25's laying around. I'm going to do a grandnational build on my l36, I know this isn't new or inventive but its been my dream project for my baby since I got her and I'm a mechanic myself with knowledgeable mechanic friends so I know its no walk in the park. My question is, I'm going to be using low boost so I was going to rebuild the engine with the L67 internals(any input on if they're strong enough would be helpful). I was wondering if the camshaft and rollers needed to be changed as well, I'm looking at this kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-03-Pontia...-/301544046831
    and this one
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-03-Pontia...-/271832282830
    one has the cam assembly one doesn't its a price difference of only 300 bucks but i figured if it was possible I would keep my original L36 cams if they were compatible, If not I have no issue spending the extra money I just wanted to confirm it was necessary. Also if anyone knows of premade turbo headers for the fbody v6 that would be awesome even though im expecting to have to have that custom fabricated. I know its easier to do an ls1 swap and what not but this is what i'm set on, any info tips or links would be greatly appreciated and I'd love to keep everyone interested updated with my progress. Thanks for anyone who helps out!

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  3. #2
    Light Throttle
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    By buying the kits listed you are really not getting any benefit from the L67 part. Yes the ring landing are different in the pistons allowing it to handle boost a little better, but the weak part are the rods. If you are just trying to get into the turbo game with low boost, you can just build on what you already have. Also those are hyper-eutectic and they are not the best for forced induction.

    The cam in the L36 is a baby cam and not really built with boost in mind, but it does work. If you spent the money on a boost friendly cam you would see quite the benefit from it.

    This is just my suggestion, so take it with a grain of salt, get proper fuel, pump, injectors, fpr, for your current L36. Then make some log manifolds to put the turbos exactly where you want them. Build hot side and cold side with a good intercooler, BOVs, and wastegate(s). Get a MAF translator and the computer tuned to make everything right in the world. Enjoy. This will allow you to get into things learn things and then grow. It will also allow you to finish the project quicker and potentiall drive the car the entire time you are working on it. My issue is I am doing the "replace everything at once" mod and my car has been down for a while and I hate it.

  4. #3
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    i wouldn't spend the money on a rebuilt bottom end. get a junkyard L32, turbo cam from zzp, intense or wherever, the valvetrain upgrades to match the cam, and boost it. Port the heads + intake if its in the budget. The rest is listed in the above post.
    "I Am America (And So Can You)." ~Stephen Colbert~

  5. #4
    Thanks for the input guys, In response to the first reply, I was going to buy the forged rods separately in addition to that kit however i didn't know those pistons were not prefered for forced induction so thanks for that, and as for the second reply I definitely see the benefits of that but my engine is in great shape i know its exact state of health, mileage, how its been maintained, what works what doesn't stuff like that It's been mine since 2007 so im a little biased into keeping my block and just doing what I need to do to let it hold the power it's a perfectly good engine and I'm more comfortable sticking to my original powerplant and do an engine build instead of a swap though like I said I completely see why that's the more economical way to go. I have a 3000 dollar budget and have decided due to time constraints to have it built by a professional who I have a connection with through a fellow mechanic and friend of mine. this car is going to be my daily driver so I need to have the build done relatively quickly and I work full time as a mechanic myself and don't have a garage at home. I'll be meeting with the guy for the engine rebuild soon to talk about whats gotta be done and what its going to cost, I'll post back with an update on what happens. Thanks again for the input and advice

  6. #5
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    I'll be curious to see if you will be able to get it done for $3K. I am doing a very budget single turbo build and I am looking at $3K to finish it up. All of the work is being done by myself and a friend.

  7. #6
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    Shadowhawk probably a late reply; but as suggested get a L32 anything under 70K will be fine. However T25s are on the small side even as twins for 231ci, will it work yes but the head ache of putting two small turbos for low boost on a low compression engine imo is not worth the headache. 3k is doable but this is assuming you doing the work yourself, but you have said with help from friends. I think th emost important thing in turbocharging is getting the right turbo the first time, screw experimenting; the work is already done and only variations exist now.

    The cam that comes stock with these engines are good for boost, is it ideal? well no!! no cam actually is; because to get the right cam you must know what amount of bp the exhaust (pre-turbine) is getting and work from there. Remember here, boost is the amount of resistance from restriction...get the right turbo for your application first and everything else falls around it

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