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Thread: New to modding, have a few questions about the L26.

  1. #16
    dont ask
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    Quote Originally Posted by hemispheres View Post
    According to ZZP if I install the HV3 insert along with my ER Rockers and port and polish my throttle body it'll give me more gains than a cam.

    Got my mind made up.

    Sorry for being a dick Skimphish, however I stated I didn't want a cam. Those of you who chimed in with "OOH BLOWER, OOOHH CAM!!!". Please buzz off.

    This thread makes me raff out loud
    LOL
    Dan

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  3. #17
    ┬─┬ ノ( ゜-゜ノ) triple_l82's Avatar
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    you want to buy an HV3. I just so happen to have a slightly used one for sale. 100 bucks and its yours. It works with aluminum intakes only.

    and as for the rest of this thread, good to see the lol moments are still around here.

    Also Dan, i need to message you.
    Larry:
    1996 camaro- Ole Blue. the very very very long time consuming project car
    1997 camaro- VIPER- turbov6camaro, search the forum for more info
    1979 Mustang Cobra - dad passed and left it to me, gonna be a clean street/strip car
    2014 Silverado CCSB 4x4 LTZ diamond white. Daily driver

  4. #18
    Thanks but I'll get it from ZZP when I get my tax return, gotta put my cat down tomorrow and I'm broke from Christmas.

    When coupled with ER rockers and our HV TB the performance surpasses dyno #'s of cam'd L36's not using our insert.

    Taken straight from the HV3 page on ZZP's website. Key word here is HV TB, their own product. I'm not getting rid of the fly by wire system so I'll have my TB P+P'd. There's a machine shop right up the road from here that does porting and polishing as well as building engines for track season. Everything from BMW's inline 6's to honda engines.

    I'll tell them what I want out of the TB based on ZZP's description of the HV TB. If I don't see the same gains as just a cam, I'll be somewhere in the ballpark.

  5. #19
    Decided against porting the throttle body, got the parts in yesterday and installed everything overnight. Ran into an issue with the cheap bolts that hold the heater core hoses into the coolant bypass located on the tensioner assembly. Head snapped off while tightening. Ended up buying a new tensioner assembly, got it back together this morning and she runs great.

    As stated, no increase in torque however it pulls harder from 3500 clean up to the redline.




  6. #20
    with a good tune you will feel a lot more performance. see if you can find a local place that will do a dyno tune, or someone that has a tuner that can do it. what all did you install? installing upgraded springs really helps with the shifts when going the rocker route. also, good choice on not doing the HV TB, it's more of a supporting mod for supercharged cars, and there would be very little benefit on yours. you will want to go with the ER rockers, as they give better performance than 1.9 ratio rockers on a N/A car.

    Rockers are a popular power adder when a cam is not an option. on my last grand prix I ran 1.9 ratio rockers with 105 lb springs and liked the top end power it gave me. on my current grand prix I went a lot more intensive and installed ported L32 heads with an XP cam, and the power difference is dramatic. you dont have to go the cam route to enjoy driving your car more, I still liked the rockers.

    as far as a top swap, there is a lot more involved than just taking the intake off and installing a supercharger. you also have to change the heads, and do a custom tune. I think you also have to install a different harmonic balancer, and at that point, you might as well just go a little bit further and put a cam in there. Top swaps are a lot of work. As far as I know the only tuning option for you is to get a custom in car tune because the transmission has a separate pcm that cannot be tuned when removed from the car.

  7. #21
    I'm using the stock valvetrain. According to ZZP it won't cause any damage unless I can find a way to rev the motor above 6k. I may go with springs at a later time and raise shift points/rev limiter to around 6200-6500.

    I was worried about valve float but after pulling the oil cap and while the car was running I could see the top end was doing exactly as it is supposed to, springs weren't wobbling or binding at all. As far as the top swap goes, what you stated is why I passed on it combined with the thinner rods of the L26. That and a complete swap kit was 1.5-4k.

  8. #22
    I'm not sure I would rev it that high. you probably wont have any valve float at idle, its when you are in the higher rpms that it is more likely. I have 90 lb valve springs and I plan on staying close to 6000, but I may try and increase it up to 6200 and see what happens. The L26 bottom end isn't so weak that it couldn't handle a top swap, the experts on a different forum say its fine for 350 hp at the wheels. you could rev it to 6500 if you run the right valve springs, probably 130 lb would be fine, but according to zzp anytime you put 110 lb or higher you need to run a double roller timing chain, and changing one of those is probably more work than you want to do, at that point you would be foolish not to put a cam in.

    you can put together the top swap kit yourself much cheaper that what you think. if you go to the junkyard and pull the parts yourself you could probably get everything for under 500, and doing it that way is good because then you learn a little on how to take it apart. there are some other forums that have more support for the 3800 FWD crowd, like www.grandprixforums.net, I spend a lot of time on there, and they are pretty good guys. before you consider doing the top swap again, I would recommend looking for a local tuner because the tune will need some adjustment.

    you could find a used L67 complete for 1500, probably less if you dont mind one with 100,000 miles.

  9. #23
    As far as I know L26 redline is 5900, fuel cutoff is 6k so the stock springs will be ok according to zzp. I've taken it out and floored the piss out of it a few times and I'm not experiencing any kind of valve float. ZZP claims anything over 1.85/1 is too much for stock springs.

    ER Rockers are 1.84 intake/1.8 exhaust.

    I did a 0-110 last night, a spark plug wire came loose from my coil pack and threw the engine light. Scared the piss outta me until I learned what it was and popped her back in place.

    Went out and did a 20-90 pull and I'm pretty sure I'm not experiencing valve float. Not hearing a backfire or the engine surging/loss of power at high rpms.

    https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v...=video_comment

  10. #24
    you are probably fine as far as the valve float, but its hard to tell when you have it or not, even with a scanner you have to really know what to look for. I did a pressure test on stock L67 springs, and they only were like 30 lbs, which is really sad. just some advice, not everything zzp says is completely true, so just be aware.

  11. #25
    Check engine came back on, code is P0106, MAP sensor circuit perfomance issue. According to the scanner it's a pending code so it hasn't been fully recognized. If I turn off the vehicle and let it cool down the code goes away, plus it only happens when the temps dip below freezing.

    It only does it on cold start-ups after driving for a while... Cleared the code and it didn't come back on even during my 0-60 testing. it makes me wonder if the flexible hose in the UIM that feeds the PCV valve was cracked or broken during the HV3 install. I felt it pushing back as I slid in the insert into the manifold.

    Speaking of.. Buddy had a stop watch my 0-60 time has improved enough for me to say I'm happy with the upgrades.

    Stock was 7.8-8 seconds, now it's 7.2-7.5.

    Ran a 8.4 and 8.7 with about 1.25-1.5 seconds of wheelspin. As for the code I'm headed to my buddies dealership tomorrow on his lunch and he says he'll take a look with his tech II.

    I'm also thinking I may need to have the TPS reset, it's possible with removing the throttle body and moving it around so much that the plate may have moved a bit, however I didn't notice a high/low idle.
    Last edited by hemispheres; 02-23-2015 at 11:47 PM.

  12. #26
    I looked the code up for you, here is a link to what the code is: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0106

    the dealership might be able to isolate the cause of the problem with their scan tool a lot quicker than other mechanics.

    if you have an aeroforce scan gauge you can use it to get an accurate 0-60 time, I think there are other options as well, like the torque app.

  13. #27
    Funny thing is I'm not having any symptoms of a bad MAP sensor or intake leaks... It makes me wonder if the change in airflow along with the much cooler air is throwing the readings out of wack.
    Last edited by hemispheres; 02-24-2015 at 08:25 AM.

  14. #28
    Everything is normal, Last night I found the o-ring for the map was slightly cock-eyed. Combined with the colder temps and it wasn't sealing right.

  15. #29
    Loving these rockers. At 70mph I can punch it and downshift into 3rd and it'll pull all the way the gov at 110. Lost the HV3 due to a hasty install which caused a coolant leak from the throttle body. Leaked inside the manifold and ate away at the insert causing an internal vacuum leak. Given that the car is programmed to shift at 5700 I'm not sure if it's worth getting another. Definitely considering front and rear plogs along with a wizaired, p+p lim and 91tune. Can't find 93 around here anywhere.

  16. #30
    https://youtu.be/UzJLn53vNwY

    Heh, got a new HV3 and installed it properly this time, took this video hastily as I got an unexpected red light. Impressive gain over stock for spending around $550 (700 if you include the second HV3.)

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