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Thread: Out with the old, In with the supercharged!

  1. #1
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    Out with the old, In with the supercharged!

    So a recent purchase from Scott, has chaged my build from N/A to boosted. I am going to cahnge a few things on the setup, and will not be making as much power as Scott because of this, but it is supposed to be a DD with a bit more than lt1 power and good low end torque + reliability.


    The L36 has been bored .020 over, new speed pro stock compression pistons, ARP bolts top to bottom (except mains), fully balanced rotating assembly, VS cam, 3.8" mps, comp hardened pushrods, 36# injectors, 105# springs, Comp shaft mount roller rockers, and the slightly ported blower from Scott.


    Due to the overbore compression will likely drop to 9.2:1 or so. which is fine. Scott was using a XP cam and 3.4" MPS which seems like fun but I don't think the 105# springs are enough for that cam, and without that cam I feel the 3.4" pulley is a bit too small. If one day I feel like I could use a 3.4" ill have it around to try out.


    Pics to come, and help needed with this vacume line BS.
    Last edited by Ebony 4nd Ivory; 04-24-2014 at 03:44 PM.
    "I Am America (And So Can You)." ~Stephen Colbert~

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  3. #2
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    I never had an issue with valve float or anything with the 105's. That thing went WOT all the time with no issues, wasn't till it was sitting still that it hydrolocked. lol. Good luck with it man, I'm slowly getting off this forum but you have my number in a PM if you need me to talk you through anything.
    1997 Camaro - sold
    2013 WRX - the awd DD

  4. #3
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    ^ So that's what happened. Usually asking what happened brings up bad memories and costly repairs.


    Before I get started with pics of the motor and all, the vac lines are somewhat confusing. The throttle body seems to be that of a FWD L36 as it has all 3 sensors in it but also has 2 spots for vac lines to connect. Where do these vac lines go or come from? Also do I need a Boost control valve? Not the BCA. There was a diagram used for a fiero swap that did not have a BCV in it.





    "I Am America (And So Can You)." ~Stephen Colbert~

  5. #4
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    Plug one of the vac nipples on the TB. Its useless in our application (supposing you are deleting all the EVAP stuff which i would highly suggest). The other needs to be connected to the AC vacuum line. At the back of the s/c you will have your brake vac line (obviously the big one), one that does a loop to connect to the BBV, and the other is a long skinny line that will connect to the FPR. On the LIM you have a nipple at the front where your MAP and boost gauge will connect.

    No need for a boost controller, you control boost via the pulley size.
    1997 Camaro - sold
    2013 WRX - the awd DD

  6. #5
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    I have a xp cam in my car and I guess I was one of the lucky ones that got a bad batch of 105 springs. I was coming to a stop when one spring broke on me. I have since installed 130 springs.
    -Patrick

    2000 camaro: zzp xp-cam(130vs,dual timing chain,retainers),Hp tuners pro, LM1 wideband, pacesetter headers, custom true dual exhaust, full intake, stock lsd and 3.42 gears, !egr, msd wires, blistein rear and KYB front shocks.

    Build in progress: Procharger P1sc-1 head unit, headunit rebuild kit, bosch by-pass valve, Walbro, progressive AEM meth injection, custom bracket, no intercooler.

    PB 1/8th: only mod was Flowmaster muffler 9.94sec

  7. #6
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    Progress made even in the face of a few semi costly setbacks. The new cliviete main bearings were installed with the polished crank. And I must say whoever designed those main caps is a genius or a total D-bag. But with some patience they all came off and reinstalled well. My rods are somewhat confusing as I forgot which way the tangs are supposed to go during reinstall. Help?


    Also my double roller chain and gears are un useable together. Its a JP DR timing set but the JP chains are garbage so I bought a JWIS chain from mike to replace it. I find out today the chain is not compatible with JP sprockets. Ill end up getting a single rollmaster and dampner to rectify this setback.


    Silver G2 engine paint should be here soon to keep that big hunk of iron from rusting. pictars.




    "I Am America (And So Can You)." ~Stephen Colbert~

  8. #7
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    All the rods look the same. Dot near the big end only on one side and the tangs to the left. I read somewhere that the tangs should be on the left side of the engine but I really have no reason to trust this information. Could someone let me know which way the dot should be facing, front or rear of the engine?


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    Front of the engine

    Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
    1997 Camaro - sold
    2013 WRX - the awd DD

  10. #9
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    Got all the gaskets from zzp today as well as the new water pump and pulley. Also installed the cam and would have installed the pistons and rods but Im having some issues with the replacement rings.


    Two separate sources say the ring gaps should be...


    Top ring: .012-.022"
    2nd ring: .030-.040"
    Oil control: .010-.030"


    Intese says the gaps are...


    Top ring: .020"
    2nd ring: .022-.024"
    Oil control: .015" minimum


    I believe intense uses different rings but the first two sources are for factory spec.


    The problem comes in with the second ring. The gap is only .016" which is half of factory spec. The Hasting replacement rings are pre gapped to be close to what is required and not supposed to be "file to fit" rings. All the second rings measure out to this but the top rings all measure .021" which is what they should. So should I re-gap them to factory spec or assume hastings did their job correctly and made them like this on purpose?


    Does anyone have factory specs on the ring gaps?
    "I Am America (And So Can You)." ~Stephen Colbert~

  11. #10
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    Problems have been resolved and massive progress made. The motor needs a few little kinks worked out before install but it should be in and running soon.


    injectors and plugs wires and coil packs installed.


    I still need to fix the fuel rail issue on cylinder 6 as it seems to not seat all the way into the head without being almost completely out of the fuel rail. And also the intake tube and throttle body are going to use a new more cleaned up type mount than what scott was using.

    In addition to all this I have a spectra premium radiator that is a bit larger than the stock one, and a hayden 1405 trans cooler to help along with the 3200 stall.

    Pics of some chasis upgrades. Light weight K member, sphoon 2 point SFCs and the new trans mount with torque arm relocation.
    "I Am America (And So Can You)." ~Stephen Colbert~

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  13. #12
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    $225 is a bit much for a fuel rail, Id rather just get injector spacers to fill the gap and spend the $250 on a new UMI torque arm. Plus I don't think his rails can be used with my alternator where it is.
    "I Am America (And So Can You)." ~Stephen Colbert~

  14. #13
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    That fuel rail should not be bent to the point that it isn't setting in. If it is just grab it and twist it.
    1997 Camaro - sold
    2013 WRX - the awd DD

  15. #14
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    Its more a problem with the rail mount that attatches near where the intake for the SC is. I just need to bend the mount so its a bit shorter and it should be good to go. Twisting will also be invoved.
    "I Am America (And So Can You)." ~Stephen Colbert~

  16. #15
    I envy you lol you have long tube headers ...... ugh but hey man nice build

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