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Thread: 3.4/3500 Round Two

  1. #46
    Glad to hear that you finally got the build done! Congrats on that! Too bad about not being able to get it to spark though. I'm sure you'll get it all sorted out when you get back to it man. Congrats again

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  3. #47
    Half Throttle
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    Thanks man for the support! How is your build going?

  4. #48
    Back burnered for the time being unfortunately. Got the bright idea to go and buy my girl an engagement ring so funds are still tight from that unfortunately

  5. #49
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    Ok, so i have some bad news from my build and would like any advice as to what possible damage there might be. So i measured my intake and exhaust pushrods with my comp cams adjustable pushrod checker before i bought my pushrods. The intake pushrods i got were 5.958" if memory serves me right. The exhaust pushrods were 6.300". Well when i measured these pushrods after they arrived in the mail, the intake pushrods were very close to their advertised length, however, the exhaust pushrods were .020 over their advertised length and i was already at the maximum .060 lifter preload with the 6.300 length. I was in a hurry and said f it and went ahead and used the exhaust pushrods. As a result, all exhaust pushrods went through the rocker arms. This was just from me trying to start the engine and not even running it. The engine had fuel, spark, and air. It just didn't have any compression and now that makes since because the exhaust valves were not opening and closing. Is there a possibility that my valves could have hit the pistons? I don't believe this could have happened since my engine is not a zero tolerance engine. I think what happened is the lifter bottomed out from too long of pushrods and put too much force on the rocker arm. What do you guys think. Next time i get a chance to work on this car, I'm going to inspect it with a boroscope to see if there is any damage on the piston

  6. #50
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    I wouldn't worry too much about piston to valve issues while trying to start the engine. If anything got damaged the valves would have bent first.

    Been there done that, except in my case my cam was too big and I bent all the exhaust valves and dented all the pistons. I ended up replacing the heads and clearanced the pistons. Engine runs mint now.

  7. #51
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    Been a long time since i've been on this forum. I finally started working on this camaro again. What happened is the exhaust valves hit the pistons which bent my expensive Manley SS exhaust valves and dented my pistons. I removed the heads, had the exhaust valves replaced with stock 3500 valves i had laying around and filed down the dented spots on the piston tops.

    What do you guys think would have caused this? I would assume it would have been that the exhaust pushrods were too long, but the cavalier 3.1 pushrods i used in the past were longer so that has me confused. Could it have been that the manley valves sat lower than the stock exhaust valves? I have a Comp Cams 260 with Comp Cam lifters so nothing radical with 3500 rocker arms, ls6 valve springs and now currently stock 3500 exhaust valves. How can I make sure to prevent bending the exhaust valves a second time?

    I complained to Comp Cams about sending me pushrods longer that what they were listed as and suspecting that that caused my engine damage. So they sent me correct sized pushrods that i plan to use. I'm just hesitant because I'm not 100% sure it was jus the pushrods that caused the damage. Any help is much appreciated!

  8. #52

  9. #53
    Did the push rods measure the same as the specs you sent them when you took your measurements? And the push rods didn't get mixed up when they got installed? I am just saying that because I have seen people do it lots before.

    The only other thing I can see happening is that the new valves are possibly longer than the stockers
    1984 type 10 hatch 3100 5spd [email protected] in the 1/4 [email protected] 1/8th. scrapped
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    1983 Pontiac firebird [email protected] (Olds 350 2" exhaust) sold
    1992 lumina 3.1 GenII [email protected] now 3400 swapped! [email protected] mph
    1999 Olds Alero 3500 swap -totaled by a honda
    1976 Olds Cutlass 350 Olds
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  10. #54
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    After assembling the heads and rotating the engine by hand very slowly, I was still having the valve to pistons issue. So I removed the timing cover for further investigation when i realized that I had the wrong timing marks lined up on the crank and cam gears. Fixed this issue and I no longer have the valve to pistons clearance issue.

    As of right now the engine is fully assembled. I just need to buy more coolant, recharge the battery, buy a T-fitting and vacuum hose, and that should be about it before startup. Wish me luck as I have been chasing this 3.4/3500 hybrid dream for so many years now. The first time was unsuccessful with the 11.5 compression. This time around I have managed to destroy a shortblock(on the engine stand) while removing a freeze plug and destroyed the exhaust valves because of incorrect timing. I'm crossing my fingers everything will run just fine with no leaks!

  11. #55
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    It's alive! Car started right up after I put the injector fuses back in lol. I drove her around for a bit around my neighborhood and she runs pretty good. I ran the car on a 3100 tune and it ended up dying on me a couple of times because of the 260 cam. Then i ran it on my Ed Wright's Fast Chip's 3.4 tune with the spark pulled back and it ran a bit better. Does anyone already have some fuel and spark tables already close for a 3.4/3500 with a mild cam?

    If not, then i think ill do what Russel did and run my hybrid on the factory tune for the engine breakin. Then, I'll have the local speed shop tune it for performance with my tunercat software.

  12. #56
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    Completed 3.4/3500 Hybrid

    20160624_195850.jpg

    Engine Mod List:

    Fully ported/polished 3500 heads, 3500 LIM, 3400 UIM
    TCE 65MM Throttle Body
    TCE Adjustabe fuel pressure regulator with stock 22# 3400 fuel injectors
    Manley SS intake valves, stock exhaust valves(sigh), LS6 valvesprings, manely retainers/keepers
    Mild 260 Comp Cam, lifters, custom pushrods, Cloyes Double roller timing set, and 3500 1.6 roller rocker arms
    New GM Main bolts, ARP rod bolts(lined/honed), ARP cam bolts, ARP flywheel bolts, ARP clutch bolts, ARP head studs, and stage 8 locking header bolts
    Stock crank, stock rods, and Mahle cast 3400 pistons with Total Seal conventional rings
    Clevite main bearings, clevite rod bearings, and durabond teflon coated sbc wide cam bearings
    RK sport headers with 3500 header flanges welded in place( thanks John!)
    MSD coils, MSD plug wires, and NGK TR6 spark plugs
    ASP underdrive pulley system
    180 degree thermostat
    cheap ebay CAI
    Last edited by koolcamaro; 07-02-2016 at 06:32 PM.

  13. #57
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    I guess the 60 degree forums are dieing. Well if anyone needs any help building a hybrid then hit me up. I have plenty experience with them and have learned from so many mistakes that I would not want others to make. Maybe one day I'll do a detailed thread with everything you need with part numbers for everything. But for now it doesn't seems as if there are many out there performing the hybrid swap anymore.

  14. #58
    Full Throttle Extreme!
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    That's one clean engine compartment. Nice job! You're right about this forum dying, most have moved to facebook or have moved on to other cars.

  15. #59
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    Haha thanks Gerald! I can't wait to throw on the powerdyne superercharger and make more horsepower than Jonathon's powerdyne'd 3800

    What size and type of fuel injectors do you recommend for this hybrid once boosted? Also, I was thinking about buying the Racetronix fuel pump kit...see anything wrong with this pump?

  16. #60
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    How much boost do you plan on running? The racetronics is a good quality unit.

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