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Thread: L36/L26 FAQ's

  1. #1
    Was fed after midnight Rising_Phoenix's Avatar
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    L36/L26 FAQ's

    This has been a much delayed project that I unfortunately haven't had the time to focus on. Moving forward I will keep this thread open for everyone to post in, but please leave it to what would be considered important or useful FAQ's. Any unnecessary chatter will be either be deleted or moved into a thread of its own. Thank you.
    Bryce | non timebo mala

    Looks like I picked the wrong day to quit drinking.


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    Full Throttle ANGRY BIRD's Avatar
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    Thanks Pheonix

    After some chatter in a another thread about L26 rods being tooth pick compared to L36 Rods I pulled both from wasted engines of mine

    Here are the pics, Cast L36 rods on the left, Powder metal L26 rods on the right.











    Last edited by ANGRY BIRD; 11-09-2012 at 11:23 PM.
    http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic7444_1.gif

  4. #3
    ┬─┬ ノ( ゜-゜ノ) triple_l82's Avatar
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    Im gonna play here....

    Useful info on the internals of the L36


    rod length:L67 5.640
    L36 5.940
    wrist pin dia: .905
    wrist pin length: 2.5
    stock dia: 3.800
    stroke: 3.400
    top ring: 1.5mm
    second ring: 1.5mm
    oil ring: 3.0mm

    This is actually from a thread I made long ago and the answers are from a member who said I could sticky it but I dont have that power so I'll post it here instead.


    3800 Series 2 Info


    1. How much can I bore the block? .030" is basicly the max you can go. .020" is probably the safest i would run.

    2. How much cam lift can I handle with a wild motor ex. like 600 lift? Depends, on how much you mill the heads, and what thickness headgaskets you run. I have seen .600" lift cams run on these motors before. but once again it depends. Also the cam will need to be installed straight up at that lift. otherwise piston to valve clearance is way to close.

    3. Building an all out n/a motor how much compression can it handle being fuel injected? Sure why not. people run obscenely boosted fuel injected motors. you need to make sure you have upgraded your fuel, fuel pump wiring, and injectors to start. You might have to change to an style lines to supply the beast too. however being N/A i think you should be ok with stock fuel rails and lines. As for C/R i would say 11 ish if you run like c16 all the time with arp studs and mls 4 layer head gaskets. Even then it could be a head gasket eater. we don't have nearly enough clamping force in the heads on these motors to prevent lifting a head with super high cylinder pressures. Some people have drilled the block to add extra bolts but it what in the long run will this do to the strenght of the block itself. that i don't know.

    4. What all can be done to the heads, angle milled, max port/polish, springs, retainers, titaninum stuff? I'm not sure about angle milling. We don't have a lot on the base of the head. I would not go overboard with that. once again always remember piston to valve clearance with this with your cam selection and so on. You can mill them some i wanna say .030" is the most you want to go, A full out port and polish, mirror the exhaust ports, springs for .600" lift, either 150 lb springs or a double spring setup which requires extra maching work to the spring seat and valve guide areas. titaninum retainers are out there and there are bunch of different retainers that work. Also install a double roller timing chain and milled oil pump backing plate to gain the neccessary clearance for the double roller chain.

    5. Oil galley plugs, restrictors, balance shaft deletion, that sort of things? Oiling is my specialty on these motors. First off we share a lot of the same problems as the 80's gn's. it surprising how similar these motors are even though they don't share any parts. first off, remove the ballance shaft and plug the front and rear oiling ports for that. 2. port the main gallery cross over in the rear cover. 3. Port the oil pump feed and return passages in the timing cover get all the casting junk out of there. 4. drill the main feeds as the passages are partially blocked by the cam bearings (this is key). Also chamfer the mains for better oiling. Next i would modify the front cover and relocate the filter and feed the oil pump with a nice sweeping -8 an line from a modified sump oil pan with a different style pick up. i think the term used to describe this pick up and sump is a mouse hut don't quote me on that though). I would also run another feed to the main oil gallery above the timing cover to fee the rear of the gallery. Final thing for now is i would port the main oil gallery around the lifters for quicker oil drain back. also install screens in the drain back holes to catch any debree if something comes appart in the top end.

    6. Tolerances, blueprints, deck height, deck thickness, cylinder bore thickness, would it be a good idea to use some block grout? I don't know these off the top of my head. but i can look into it.

    7. How much can I turn a stock crank, can I nitrade it, can I knife edge it? I would leave it as it is. its a super stout peice as it is. when you turn they become weak and will break in boosted engines. A max effort N/A motor could pose the same problems. Knife edging is a nice idea to eliminate windage. as long as to much material isn't removed i would say go for it.

    8. Is there any other aftermarket intake design for this motor, not a cold are system either? Not currently.

    9. Is there away to carbuerate this motor, seriously? Only with the right intake

    10. Any better ignitions out there or is there just coil packs and pcm programming? The stock coil pack/icm setup on these cars are great. Most of the high power 10 second and faster gn's upgrade from their coil pack setup to what we use stock. Ussually garden hose wires are the only upgrade i make. Running a coil per cylinder setup will require some major tuning and wiring to get going. Its a major project. But i've heard that there is actually one or two gtp's out there with something like this.

    I think there is more I would like to know but my brain farted and I just can't think of anything.
    Any info please.

    hope this helps. best advice i can give is not to go overboard milling the heads and boring the cylinders. those two things could kill your motor before it starts. also this motor uses cross bolt mains which are quite strong. don't forget to upgrade all you fastners to arp stuff and studs for the heads. ussually if you use arp lower end stuff a line hone is recomended because of the better clamping force.
    I have more but I'll have to dig around and see what I want to share.
    Last edited by triple_l82; 05-23-2013 at 02:03 PM. Reason: Updated rod lengths and added l36 rod info
    Larry:
    1996 camaro- Ole Blue. the very very very long time consuming project car
    1997 camaro- VIPER- turbov6camaro, search the forum for more info
    1979 Mustang Cobra - dad passed and left it to me, gonna be a clean street/strip car
    2014 Silverado CCSB 4x4 LTZ diamond white. Daily driver

  5. #4
    Light Throttle
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    Every site I look at says the L36 rods are 5.644, are you 100% certain they are 5.94? I don't want to order the wrong size.

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

  6. #5
    ┬─┬ ノ( ゜-゜ノ) triple_l82's Avatar
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    the NA engine is the L36 and the rods are longer.

    The supercharged engines are l67 and have shorter rods.

    No one specs out for the L36 and always assume you will swap to the L32 or L67 rods which are the shorter rod.

    You can find this all over this website or online. Google L36 connecting rod vs L67 connecting rod.
    Larry:
    1996 camaro- Ole Blue. the very very very long time consuming project car
    1997 camaro- VIPER- turbov6camaro, search the forum for more info
    1979 Mustang Cobra - dad passed and left it to me, gonna be a clean street/strip car
    2014 Silverado CCSB 4x4 LTZ diamond white. Daily driver

  7. #6
    Light Throttle
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    Quote Originally Posted by triple_l82 View Post
    the NA engine is the L36 and the rods are longer.

    The supercharged engines are l67 and have shorter rods.

    No one specs out for the L36 and always assume you will swap to the L32 or L67 rods which are the shorter rod.

    You can find this all over this website or online. Google L36 connecting rod vs L67 connecting rod.
    It looks like both of these sites are showing the L67 at, approx 5.64" and the L36 at approx 5.74"

    http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php...56K-safe/page2

    http://www.3800pro.com/forum/bottom-...3/topics/26632

    Also here is a screenshot from rockauto showing the connecting rod length for an 01 camaro 3.8L.



    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

  8. #7
    ┬─┬ ノ( ゜-゜ノ) triple_l82's Avatar
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    Well, go get two rods. Find a stock L36 off ebay and find a stock L67 off ebay. Buy them then compare for yourself....
    Larry:
    1996 camaro- Ole Blue. the very very very long time consuming project car
    1997 camaro- VIPER- turbov6camaro, search the forum for more info
    1979 Mustang Cobra - dad passed and left it to me, gonna be a clean street/strip car
    2014 Silverado CCSB 4x4 LTZ diamond white. Daily driver

  9. #8
    Full Throttle Extreme! Turningfast's Avatar
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    Lol, wut?
    Running turbo car but.......for how long? up to 25#'s so far so good http://fquick.com/1SICK6
    11.63 @118.9 1.63 60' Best trap 119.6
    After almost 30k miles it popped, junk yard L26 going in with a better turbo
    Ooops, I did it again, lol.

  10. #9
    ┬─┬ ノ( ゜-゜ノ) triple_l82's Avatar
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    ^i never knew we had so many options. I've held both rods, compared both rods, been inside and out just like you man. Share my knowledge but its just not good enough......this is why i quit forums.

    Larry:
    1996 camaro- Ole Blue. the very very very long time consuming project car
    1997 camaro- VIPER- turbov6camaro, search the forum for more info
    1979 Mustang Cobra - dad passed and left it to me, gonna be a clean street/strip car
    2014 Silverado CCSB 4x4 LTZ diamond white. Daily driver

  11. #10
    Light Throttle
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    Guys I'm not trying to insult or prove anyone wrong here. This is for personal clarification. Lots of sites show different info. I want to order some rods and pistons and I want to order correctly. I'm not disagreeing that the L36 are longer, but everything I see is showing only .100 longer. Are these sites incorrect?

    Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

  12. #11
    ┬─┬ ノ( ゜-゜ノ) triple_l82's Avatar
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    yes, the L36 rod is a lot longer than the L67. It weighs in at a different amount also. I used to have a L36 rod beside a gm 5.7 rod. Its a lot longer. I have 4 l36 rods rusting away in the bed of my duramax. I can go out there and take measurements for you. I wont be able to post pictures as i have a shit phone but there are plenty of members here who can vouch for me. Hell look me up on facebook:
    https://www.facebook.com/larry.cronan

    Ill tag you in some photos if i get some uploaded. hell just look through my photos. its probably in there. Be ready for a lot of pictures though haha.
    Larry:
    1996 camaro- Ole Blue. the very very very long time consuming project car
    1997 camaro- VIPER- turbov6camaro, search the forum for more info
    1979 Mustang Cobra - dad passed and left it to me, gonna be a clean street/strip car
    2014 Silverado CCSB 4x4 LTZ diamond white. Daily driver

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