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Thread: Where are the knock sensors located on a 3.8L?

  1. #1
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    Where are the knock sensors located on a 3.8L? (UPDATE: Misfiring!)

    I have heard conflicting responses as to where these are located. I have heard some people say its under the intake manifold and I have heard some say its located under the car. Which one is it?

    Also, any tips on replacing them would be great!

    I need to replace one of these on the 01 Bird.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by TMC2k1; 01-12-2012 at 06:37 PM.

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    Look from under the car near the engine mount brackets. They are round and have a 1 write connector

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    LS1's are under the intakes.

    Do what scoooot said.
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    Thanks guys!

    Also, I hear you will lose a bit of coolant when taking out the sensors since they are in the water jackets. Is it significant enough to add more coolant or is it negligible?

  6. #5
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    Have a big catch bucket. It will drain a ton if coolant out.

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  7. #6
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    You'll lose all the coolant in the block depending how fast you can pull old and put in new. Be prepared to get dirty. Driver side is just behind motor mount and iirc the passenger is same.
    1999 Camaro A4 3.8L soon to be LS1 swapped
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  8. #7
    Drain the whole coolant system and have a something ready to catch whatever is left when you unbolt the knock sensors.
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    Also don't forget to bleed the whole system of air right after you start up.

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  10. #9
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    Ok, so I jacked up the car today to find the exact location of the knock sensors. Of course, what I originally thought happened...happened. I see that the knock sensor has a blue wire connected from it and I see that it is indeed cut (Had to go to an exhaust shop to get header bolts replaced because I couldn't jack it up high enough to get enough clearance to put new bolts in. SES light came out immediately after leaving the shop. They used a cutting tool to cut the bolts in half because they couldn't get them loose either). This is the correct wire right? Whats the best way to get this fixed up?

    Here is a pic

    http://i40.tinypic.com/2ahcwol.jpg
    Last edited by TMC2k1; 12-31-2011 at 03:22 PM.

  11. #10
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    Get a butt splice and tape it or use shrink wrap.
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  12. #11
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    Will do! It does suck that this happened, but it sure beats dropping $50 on another sensor.

    Thanks for all your help guys!

  13. #12
    Was fed after midnight Rising_Phoenix's Avatar
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    Do like WarShrike said a couple of butt splices, just a little bit of 12/14 gauge wire in case you cannot strip enough of the insulation off to crimp both ends into the butt splice. I would highly recommend using some heat shrink tubing and pick up some dielectric grease to spread at each end of the butt splice before slipping the heat shrink tubing over it in case the connection gets wet.
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    Ok, I did all that. I tried to go to Advance to get the code cleared, but apparently they no longer do that.

    How long would it take for the SES light to go away?

    Again, thanks everyone for your help!

  15. #14
    Was fed after midnight Rising_Phoenix's Avatar
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    Do you have a specific tune set up? If not, just remove the positive battery cable for half an hour and come back. That should clear it...unless someone knows that doesn't clear codes.
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  16. #15
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    Unplugging the battery will remove a custom tune? I didn't know that. I had a small tune done a couple years ago by tpunk. I replaced my battery a few months ago when it died. So that custom tune is no longer there?

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