No I bought pushrods for a 91 cavalier. I cant remember if it was this thread or another one but someone posted on a thread that the pushrods from a 89-91 3100 would work and that their lengths were 6.042 &6.382 and when I ordered them I double checked the lenghts to make sure of that. And about the gen 2 350 I know I would have to cut the cowl to make room for the distributor. I have done so much research into both options my head is about to explode or I feel like it is anyway... I have had a headache for the last 2 months figuratively and literally. Hahaha
I don't know what cam you were using, but I have sold TONS of top end swaps and only had one issue using the Gen2 push-rods and that was on a radical cam. You need to be turning the rocker bolt ~1.5 turns after zero lash until the bolt seats. If you have much more than that, the rods are too long, if you have less than .75 turns to seat then they are too short.
Originally Posted by WCFB-Russ
Listen to Forced. He knows what he's doing and what he's talking about.
Sorry to revive an old thread but I am about to undertake this swap for my 1994 ironhead 3.4 CPI that I have in my rock buggy. See attached photo. camer34.jpg
So correct me if I am wrong on any of this and please try to answer my questions...
This engine is connected to a NON computerized turbo 350 transmission.
So the parts I need from the wrecker are?:
From a 2000+ 3400 Grand Am GT:
Gen III Aluminum Heads
Plenum (Upper Intake Manifold)
Lower Intake Manifold
What about Pistons? Do I need them out of the 2000+ 3400 Grand Am GT doner motor or do I use my stock 3.4 pistons? If I DO need the pistons from the doner do I also need the rods?
The other write up says I need a oil filter... Is that just a new oil filter or is it a different part number oil filter I need?
I do run a mild cam (not sure what size but could confirm this when I pull the motor) Assuming it is a mild cam do I need to make changes to the valve springs or shims on the 3400 aluminum heads that i will be swapping on? My Iron heads don't appear to have any aftermarket springs or shims on them.
What about the lifters and pushrods in my 3.4? Will those two things work with this swap or do I need to get different lifter and pushrods and if so what ones exactly?
Head gaskets... What will I need? 3.4 or 3400 ones?
Thanks in advance, I look forward to your replies.
If you just do the heads/intake you can use any parts that fit in the 3.4 block (if its a rwd 3.4). The part list looks about right, let me update the water neck part with this little baby here - made things a lot easier: http://www.britishcarconversions.com...-billet-detail
if that link disappears pm me and ill get it to you as soon as i see the post.
Cam doesn't matter. You need the pistons from the engine you are swapping from or new ones that would fit into that engine. Otherwise you have to do machine work on the heads / pistons to make them run a proper CR.
You will need to basically change everything above the cam. lifters are fine but custom pushrods, rocker arms, etc.
head gaskets - get all gaskets topend for the 3400.
No, the intake manifolds have to match the heads, iron heads = 3.4 manifolds, aluminum heads = 3x00 manifolds. Don't forget if you aren't tuning you will also need FWD pistons (3100 and 3400 heads have small chambers and can't be used with RWD pistons without enlarging the chambers or using race gas only).
Has there been anyone that you have known to use any other higher flowing manifolds bolted on to the 3.4l iron heads? I've had my stroker engine from ARI Racing for about 8 years or so and I just saw the tuner program from Tuner CATS. I've been playing with the air fuel ratios and now I'm trying to get more air flow. My heads have been ported and polished as a part of that package, but it looks like all of the 3x00 upper and lower manifolds require the aluminum heads. Am I stuck with the 3.4l manifolds?
I've been reading through and cannot quite find anything other than the quote above. Thanks!
I'm new to the 60 degree and am still collecting information before shopping for parts and a rear wheel block. Some FWD blocks have roller lifters. Have they been used in RWD? If they are available in the aftermarket are they worth the expense for a street engine?