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  1. #1
    Half Throttle juanperez's Avatar
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    How hard is it to change shocks/struts?

    Im planning on changing both my front and rear struts/shocks, dont want to go high on them, probably pick up all 4 in autozone or o'reilly, so is it hard to install them? never done shocks or struts so not sure what im dealing with
    NEW: 2001 Camaro z28 stock 2.73 gears, hooker exhaust, crappy lid, cutout, Blistein shocks/struts, 187 stainless steel thermostat, tranny cooler, free ram air lol, throttle body bypass,

    1998 Firebird, stock with flowmaster's and K&N filter (SOLD)



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  3. #2
    Constantly Overachieving Merlin's Avatar
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    depends on your skill level. I've done them by myself on multiple occasions. the rears are incredibly easy, but the fronts are where the skills are needed.
    Justin

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    For more information about the L67 swap into an F-body, please click here

  4. #3
    Half Throttle juanperez's Avatar
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    oh i see, how much would you think i would get charged if i do them on a shop?
    NEW: 2001 Camaro z28 stock 2.73 gears, hooker exhaust, crappy lid, cutout, Blistein shocks/struts, 187 stainless steel thermostat, tranny cooler, free ram air lol, throttle body bypass,

    1998 Firebird, stock with flowmaster's and K&N filter (SOLD)



  5. #4
    Full Throttle Extreme!
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    Honestly, the only hard part is decompressing the springs and getting the nut on there good. I ended up just bringing mine to pepboys because I heard of someone doing that on here, and they just charge $20 to swap out the shocks (as in they decompress it, take the mount off, and put the new shocks in and TQ down the nut).

    Well worth the time/frustration dealing with the POS autozone rental decompressor.

    Back takes like 10 minutes to do though. lol

  6. #5
    Half Throttle juanperez's Avatar
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    oh i see, but since you guys are car literate lol its easier for you, like is there any simple guide i can follow just to give it a read through and see how to do it?
    NEW: 2001 Camaro z28 stock 2.73 gears, hooker exhaust, crappy lid, cutout, Blistein shocks/struts, 187 stainless steel thermostat, tranny cooler, free ram air lol, throttle body bypass,

    1998 Firebird, stock with flowmaster's and K&N filter (SOLD)



  7. #6
    Full Throttle Extreme!
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    Quote Originally Posted by juanperez View Post
    Im planning on changing both my front and rear struts/shocks, dont want to go high on them, probably pick up all 4 in autozone or o'reilly, so is it hard to install them? never done shocks or struts so not sure what im dealing with
    You have 4 shocks, no struts, although the fronts look like struts.

    If you've never done this, and the ones on your car are original (ie they've been on for ten years), you DON'T want to do the fronts yourself. The fronts are hard enough, even when everything isn't stuck together.

    If you do do them yourself, farm out the bit where you swap the springs over. Requires special tool, and is a bit dangerous.

  8. #7
    Full Throttle Extreme!
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    Quote Originally Posted by V6Bob View Post
    You have 4 shocks, no struts, although the fronts look like struts.

    If you've never done this, and the ones on your car are original (ie they've been on for ten years), you DON'T want to do the fronts yourself. The fronts are hard enough, even when everything isn't stuck together.

    If you do do them yourself, farm out the bit where you swap the springs over. Requires special tool, and is a bit dangerous.
    Eh depends on where you live

    If you live in a place where it doesn't snow, you will be fine.

    For example I live in FL. The whole underside of my car looks brand new, and there were no stuck bolts. I've never had issues with any of my bolts anywhere so far yet.


    Also I did it myself for the first time and I was fine. The fronts took forever though because I didn't have a guide or anything. I knew what I was doing to a point, but it just takes time TBH. Nothing really "hard". But that's how a lot of shit is with cars.

  9. #8
    Full Throttle crunkmaro's Avatar
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    the rears are simple. pretty straight forward on those.


    the fronts like stated are a bit tougher, but nothing anyone with some tools can't do. ( i don't use air tools btw...so hand tools will suffice)

    take off the front wheel

    take off the sway bar (endlinks are where ya disconnect, make sure to hold both ends as holding one will just in useless spinning)

    there is a cotter pin in a castle nut on the steering knuckle take that pin out (long nose pliers) and take the castle nut off (just as you would any bolt)

    take a hammer and start hitting the knuckle until it pops out, make sure you have the arm bungee corded or roped up so it doesn't end up hanging by the brake line...i don't do it but i wouldn't want to tell you not to do it and have you end up dying.

    now unbolt the bottom of the strut.

    now move to the top of the car under the engine bay

    you will need star key sockets (this is the only pic i found...sorry)



    on the passenger side, it is pretty easy, just unbolt and the strut will drop, on the driver side you will need to unbolt the master cylinder from the booster (bolts on the bottom left and right of the master cylinder) and move it out of the way to get to the bolt. if you have ABS then you will also need to move the abs box out of the bracket to ease movement of the cylinder. don't worry, it bolts right in, no bleeding required.

    after the strut is out, get some spring compressors (these work just fine)

    and compress the spring enough so it won't fly off when you unbolt the top mount



    after the strut is out and the spring compressed, you are going to have to use a pair of vicegrips to hold the shaft while you unbolt the top of the bolt (where the mount is).

    now everything comes apart

    move the spring to the new strut, making sure to replace strut mounts and cups if they show any sign of cracking or wear.


    now do everything in reverse order.

    my first time it took me 4 hours.

    now it takes me roughly 45 minutes to do all 4 corners.
    Cats go quack.

  10. #9
    4000+ HP, it pulls. MusicMan's Avatar
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    Make sure you get a can of pb blaster too. Fronts are a pain in the ass if they're original.

    -Steve
    1996 Camaro, in progress: mild 5.3, TH400, T6 S475, 8.50 chassis cert...
    1993 K1500 W/T
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  11. #10
    $.02 Queen OneSlowL36's Avatar
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    Yea, and let it soak for 24 hours like your supposed to (lotta people spray and crank down right away expecting results). I would spray all the bolts down NOW if your even thinking about replacing them
    ~Ryan~

    A4, Z28 Catback, 3" Magnaflow cat, 3" Cutout, PCMforLess tune, 3.42 Z/T
    As of now, its a 3350 lb paperweight.

  12. #11
    Half Throttle juanperez's Avatar
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    wow thanks for all the help ill do my best lol
    NEW: 2001 Camaro z28 stock 2.73 gears, hooker exhaust, crappy lid, cutout, Blistein shocks/struts, 187 stainless steel thermostat, tranny cooler, free ram air lol, throttle body bypass,

    1998 Firebird, stock with flowmaster's and K&N filter (SOLD)



  13. #12
    Full Throttle crunkmaro's Avatar
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    you will be fine.

    just remember...don't overtorque trying to get get stuff off or the nut will come off with part of the bolt in it lol
    Cats go quack.

  14. #13
    (╯□)╯︵ /(.□ . \) Sparky's Avatar
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    Just going to warn you right now.

    Odds are, if your shocks are original, that the front shock mounts will need replaced. They'll tear when you take them off. On top of the shock mount is the isolator plate. That usually is reusable, so save that.

    I got a set of Moogs for my shock mount replacements from Advance Auto. Fit like OEM and come with new nuts and bolts. They call it a "strut mount" though, even though we have shocks, not struts. They have to order them, they usually come in next day, but just FYI.

    Also, one other thing: the driver side, for some really stupid reason, has torx bolts instead of standard bolts holding the shock mount in on the top. RETARDED. That, plus the master cylinder being in the way makes it fun to get out.

    Oh, and leave plenty of time. I thought yeah I can do this in a weekend... wrong. Found other things that were bad while I was at it (tie rod ends, sway bar was cracked, stuck endlink, etc) plus the shock mounts caught me by surprise so that delayed by a couple days.

    PB blaster is your friend
    - Jared
    1999 Camaro 3.8L A4, Mystic Teal Metallic. Cammed, headers. Stranos and Bilsteins, Founders LCAs, relo brackets, and adj. panhard. BLS + 5000k HID.
    2002 Trailblazer LS 4.2L 4x4, Forest Green Metallic and rusty brown two-tone. Lifted.


  15. #14
    Full Throttle Extreme! FloydSummerOf68's Avatar
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    I'll say this...

    If you have access to an impact of some sort then do it yourself. If you are using only a ratchet, then take it somewhere, because it will take you FOREVER to compress those springs.
    Shawn
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  16. #15
    (╯□)╯︵ /(.□ . \) Sparky's Avatar
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    Hey, I used a ratchet and wrenches to do mine

    Compressing the springs only took a fraction of the time compared to the rest of the stuff.
    - Jared
    1999 Camaro 3.8L A4, Mystic Teal Metallic. Cammed, headers. Stranos and Bilsteins, Founders LCAs, relo brackets, and adj. panhard. BLS + 5000k HID.
    2002 Trailblazer LS 4.2L 4x4, Forest Green Metallic and rusty brown two-tone. Lifted.


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