ok guys, i have been having a problem with my oil pan leaking around the bolts of the pan its self. so i need to replace the gasket on the oil pan. i thought this would be an easy task but upon reading on how to remove and oil pan on a 1997 V6 camaro, all the books said i had to remove the engine!?!?! the only problem i see removing the pan is the housing of the tranny blocks 3 or 4 bolts, the rest are easy to get to. does any one have some easy steps to getting the oil pan off???
The oil pan stradles the kmember so you have to at least raise the motor up ~4" to slide the oil pan out... don't have to remove the engine, but it is obviously easier to replace the pan with the motor out.
2008 5.3 A4 Chevrolet Avalanche
2006 6.0 A4 Quicksilver Metallic GTO
1999 3.8 A4 Bright Silver Metallic Firebird - Sold
does any one have some easy steps to getting the oil pan off???
Simply put, no.
It's a pain....nuff said...
When my dad an I went to replace my oil pan gasket we nearly had teh pan clear, but we just couldn't finigle it out. You have to jack up the motor, i remember that much. So after 8 hours of work, and nearly half of those just trying to get the pan out, we called AAA and had it towed to our mechanic. The mechanic said he had to jack up the transmission a lil bit more, and then there was enough clearance for the pan to come out so you could replace the gasket.
So yea, plan a nice bit to work on it. It's def do-able, b/c i know there's other ppl on the board that've done it. But there's no easy way. Good luck man!
well, im about to actually do this, cause the gasket has just gone to shit. the one question i have is what kind of gasket to use? autozone sells felpro and i just thought about grabbing one of those. any suggestions on gaskets?
i know on LS1 f-bodies, it helps if you drop the k-member a little bit. like if you put the long bolts in the short bolt holes so it cant fall out of the car. this along with jacking up the trans it should come out.
if the felpro gasket is rubber, id use that one. stay away from cork
2001 Buick Regal GS-Black
1998 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP-Silvermist Coupe
To do list-inlet & outlet ported, outside fully polished, intercooler, LS1 t/b
The oil pan gasket in these cars is plastic. they are notorious for leaking and it just cant be helped. whatever gasket you use, make sure you put some rtv on it as well to make sure you dont end up with the same problem.
GMC Sierra 2008
Yamaha V-Star 1100 2003
For more information about the L67 swap into an F-body, please click here
rtv??? I just wondering cus Im about to do it tomorrow too. Mine is leaking all around the pan. Sucks big time. And my oil pressure went to shit, So I think my oil pump is bad too. ( or sending unit) Another question Why does Napa only sell a oil pump repair kit and not the pump. Is the repair kit any good?
1996 Camaro V6 - RIP For now!!!!
1989 MKlll Supra Turbo- some mods, fast enough
Originally Posted by SmokePanther
two words: hurricane season. Enjoy your annual evacuation, chump
ok, this next week im going to do this, since my dad will have some time off to do this with me. in my chilton's manual it says this for one of the steps:
"support the engine from above with an engine hoist and raise the enginse slightly so the engine mount through-bolts can be removed. raise the engine. on 2000 and later models, it will be necessary to lower the front crossmember slightly for oil pan removal. Refer to chaper 10 and disconnect the steering shaft from the rack-and-pinion, then remove the two right crossmember-to-frame bolts and loosen the two left crossmember-to-frame bolts."
so is it saying that since mine is a 1997 i dont have to lower the crossmember or disconnect the steering shaft? ill probably drop the k member some, but would i have to disconnect the steering shaft?
from under the car, look up at each side of the K.
there are (6) 18mm headed bolts that go thru the K to the frame rail. (3 each side)
you can easily gain 1-1.5in without much effort.
if u need more then remove the (2) bolts holding the steering rack ( 15mm headed bolts with 18mm headed nuts).
pita if your ac compressor is still attached, but doable.
trick! - should u remove the rack mounting bolts do not install them the way you took them out. flip them upside down with the 15mm head at the bottom now...makes life flippin sooooo much easier should u have to pull the rack or drop the K again later.
also, remove the 11mm headed bolt from the steering shaft (i remove both top and bottom..just used to doing it)
remove the (2) lower shock bolts on each shock.
once you have that stuff loose/off the K can be dropped 5-6in..easy.
the upper A arm and shock will support the K..free floating for the lack of a better term.
i've pulled my pan 6 times over the course of a week trying to find a leak at the turbo drain inlet..thats when i discovered our pans have 2 layers.