FullThrottleV6.com - 5th Gen V6 Camaro, Firebird, Grand Prix, Regal, Grand Am and Mustang Tech Forums FAQ

Here you can find answers to questions about how the board works. Use the links or search box below to find your way around.




Rear Swaybar Install Guide


Items that you'll need:

Parts:



* 1 new swaybar
* 2 new endlinks that are compatible with your new swaybar
* 2 new bushings and bushing housings that are compatible with your new swaybar
* Polyurethane grease (if poly bushings/endlinks are used)


Safety Items: Gloves, Eyewear, Wheel chocks
Tools:



* 3/8" socket wrench
* 3/8" socket extension
* 13mm socket, 14mm socket, 1/2" socket
* 13mm wrench, 14mm wrench
* PB penetrating oil
* WD-40
* hammer
* wire brush
* jack, jackstands, tire iron

Install Directions:

Step 1

Remove rear wheel centercaps. Break lug nuts loose with tire iron. Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Jack up the car by the pumpkin (differentail housing) until the jack stands can fit beneath the frame. Place jack stands beneath frame, and slowly draw jack down until the weight of the car is on the stands, and the rear end/suspension is hanging freely. See Figure 3. The stock swaybar assembly is highlighted.

Figure 3


Step 2

Finish removing lugs, remove rear tires and place them aside. You now have clearance to service the rear swaybar. Locate the endlinks on either side of the car. Figure 4 shows the driver's side endlink and Figure 5 shows the passenger side endlink.

Figure 3


Step 3

Apply penetrating oil to the 13mm nuts on top of each endlink assembly. Wait 10 minutes for sufficient penetration.

Figure 3


Step 4

Remove the stock endlink assemblies using the following technique: Place a 13mm wrench on the top nut. Place the 13mm socket driver on the underside bolt head and turn until the upper wrench makes contact with inner wheel well wall. If your shock gets in the way, remove the upper wrench and place it back on the nut so that the wrench's length is on the other side of the shock. For example, note the pink arrow in Figure 5. The wheel well wall will hold the wrench tight. Now torque the hell out of the bolt head to break the nut loose. The assembly may be rust welded together since it's exposed to so much moisture flung off your tires. Keep at it after you start swearing. This is the toughest part of the job. Before the stock endlink assemblies have been completely removed, note the order in which the parts are "shishkabobbed' onto the main bolt. From bottom to top, the order should be washer-poly-swaybar-poly-washer-spacer-washer-poly-framebracket-poly-washer-nut. You'll need to duplicate this order when assembling the aftermarket endlink assemblies. Also note that the each pair of poly pads need to face each other.

Figure 4


Step 5

Ok now both endlink assemblies have been removed. Move on to the bushing assemblies that are still holding the stock swaybar to the axle. Apply penetrating oil to the 2 nuts that secure the swaybar to the 2 U-bolts. (See Figure 6) Wait 10 minutes for sufficient penetration. Use a deep 1/2" socket to removes these nuts. Once the nuts are free, place them aside because we will reuse them with the new swaybar. We will also reuse the U-bolts and U-bolt seats so don't lose them either. You can discard the stock bushing housings, since we'll replace these with aftermarket ones. The stock swaybar assembly should now fall freely from the vehicle.

Figure 5


Step 6

Use a wire brush to remove loose rust from the axle housing where the U-bolts were sitting. Also scrape down the U-bolts and U-bolt seats to get them cleaned up. You don't want any crap falling in your eyes when you're putting things back together.

Figure 6


Step 7

See Figure 7 for a comparion of the stock and aftermarket assemblies. Note that both my stock endlink bolts are broke in half. That's the other way of removing them. I was wrenching on them so hard that they just snapped. But anyway, we now need to prepare the aftermarket swaybar assembly for install. First apply poly grease to each endlink poly piece. There should be 4 on each side for a total of eight. Use the remainder of the grease to lube up the inside of each bushing.

Figure 7


Step 8

Place the newly lubed bushing on the bar by opening them up along their slit. They don't slide onto the ends of the swaybar! The should "pac-man" onto the bar instead. This should make sense after you've inspected the new bushings.

Figure


Step 9

Place the newly lubed endlink assemblies onto the new swaybar. Make sure the order of parts matches the stock order. The lubed face of the poly pads should face the bar and frame brackets of course.
 


Step 10

If you have someone available to help, have them hold the fully assembled swaybar assembly up to the vehicle while you thread the endlink bolts through the frame brackets and get each nut started on top of the bolt. If no one is around to help, then use your jack to hold the bar up in position while you thread each nut onto the main endlink bolts. Just get them started and be sure to leave the entire assembly hanging loose. Don't worry if the swaybar isn't seated properly between the lower poly pad pair. It shouldn't be yet.
 


Step 11

Move over to the U-bolt & bushing assemblies. Note that there are little seats on the axle housing where the U-bolt seat should sit. Once you get the U-bolt threaded around the axle housing and through the U-bolt seat holes, slide the corresponding bushing along the bar until it lines up. Now just push the bushing cover on and twist on the stock 1/2" nuts. You may want to apply some WD-40 to the U-bolt ends to facilitate the reinstall. Run the nuts down with a 1/2" deep socket until they're fingertight.
 


Step 12

We now need to tighten down the endlink nuts. But the rear suspension needs to be loaded first. So take your jack and jack up the pumpkin until the ends of the new swaybar have a bit more play in them. Now make sure the swaybar is seated properly between the lower pair of poly pads. See Figure 8 for an example of proper seating. Now run down the endlink nut/bolt assembly using a 14mm wrench and 14mm socket driver. You can use the same technique of wedging an open-ended wrench against the wheel well walls. (Don't use your shocks as a brace, just the wheel wells!) Torque the nuts down until they're "Real Effin' Tight." I don't know what the torque spec is, but someone could fill me in if they happen to know. If you did it tight enough, your open-ended wrench should be wedged so hard against the wheel well wall that you can't really get it off. Grab your hammer and give it a few taps. It'll pop right off.
 


Step 13

Repat on the other endlink assembly.
 


Step 14

Now run down the 4 1/2" U-bolt nuts until they're "REal Effin' Tight" too.
 


Step 15

Double check the swaybar eyelet seating between the poly pads. If they look good to you, you can replace the wheels, finger tighten the lugs, and bring the car down off the stands.
 


Step 16

Retighten your lugs and replace your centercaps. You should be all set now.
 


Search FAQ

Select this option if you would like your search to look in the text of FAQ items as well as their titles.

Select an option here to specify how you would like your search query to be treated. 'Any words' will return the most numerous but possibly least relevant results, while 'Complete phrase' will return only results that contain exactly what you are searching for.