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View Full Version : Auto to manual write up



Meatyshells
01-07-2008, 10:29 PM
cant remember if i ever posted this here, so here it is. Enjoy

My auto tranny was about to take a crap so insted of paying lots of money for a new one or having the old one rebuilt i spent about the same amount and put a manual in instead

overall it wasnt very hard, but it wasnt very easy either. Just plan ahead, what could go wrong, probably will.

parts needed:
tranny /w bellhousing
clutch flywheel pressure plate
clutch master cylinder /w clutch reservoir gm# 12565144
slave cylinder /w throw out bearing
pilot bearing
shifter
shift knob
center console insert
leather shift boot
lower shift boot
vss if tranny doesnt come with one gm#12523306 (96-02)
t-5 torque arm bracket/mount gm# 10252374 and 10252375 ( need both) 94-02
t5 cross member gm# 10269725 (98-02)
clutch pedal assm gm# 10298616 (99-02)
new pcm or a pcm reflash
lots of new bolts
reverse lights switch leads gm# 12085485 (94-02)
clutch safety switch gm# 14094368 (96-02) /w pigtail leads gm#12102690 (96-02)
rec new tranny mount (Im using the 1le mount)
wire connectors
small amount of extra wire

more pictures to come when i get my camera back from my stupid sister.

1. First of course you will need to get the car up on jacks, the higher the better. Also disconnect the battery just in case.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/meatyshells/everything/P7091640.jpg

2. Once the car is jacked up you will need to take off the torque arm, followed by the drive shaft.
To remove the torque arm there are 2 long bolts with nuts on each end located on the rear end. after removing these, remove the torque arm bracket attached to the trans. Just follow the torque arm to where it connects to the tans and you will see it, Should remove with 2-3 bolts. Next there are 4 bolts attaching the drive shaft to the rear end. Remove these and the drive shaft should pull out from the trans.

3. Next you will need to remove the actual trans from the engine, this is the fun part. Start inside the car and remove the center console. Put the car in first, there is a staple holding the shift knob on. Take a small flat head screw driver and take it out and remove the knob. Next there are 2 7mm bolts under the coin holder in the arm rest. Take those off and the shifter plate will come off. Then there are about 8 10mm bolts holding the center console in place. 2 are in the bottom of the armrest, 2 are on either side of the console (one by the cupholder and oppisite side of it), and the rest are located next to or on the shifter assm. Once the center console is off unbolt the shifter and you can either cut the shifter cable and brake release cable or find where they are connected and disconnect them. I choose to cut them and then i removed the shifter assm.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/meatyshells/everything/autoshifter.jpg
Remove all the bolts you can from the underside of the bellhousing. They are 18mm i belive. When you get to the the bolts that are too hard to reach you will need to unbolt the cross member from the car. It is located in the back and bottom of the trans. Place a jack under this so when you unbolt it the trans will not fall. There are 4 bolts each are 15mm i believe.
When you unbolt the cross member onto the jack, you will need to slightly lower the jack. When you do this the trans will tilt back allowing you to get to the higher up bolts. The best way to get these bolts off is by using a 4 foot long extension and getting the bolts out from behind the trans.
There should also be 2 trans mounts on either side of the trans connecting the trans to the engine. For some reason my car did not have these.
When all the bolts are removed it is time to pry the tranns away from the engine. The easist way to do this i found is get a type of crowbar and stick it between the engine and the trans and push very hard. But be very carful once the trans is pushed far enough away, the trans will fall out and you DONT want it to fall on you (ITS HEAVY!!!) Also make sure all the connectors are off of the trans before letting it fall.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/meatyshells/everything/P7091642.jpg

4. Once the trans is removed you are left with the torque converter.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/meatyshells/everything/P7091644.jpg

there are 3 bolts holding this on if i remember correctly. But to get to the bolts you need to remove the inspection plate first. There should be at least 1very small bolt holding it in place, and then it should pull out (with some forcefull hands :)) dont worry about bending it or even cutting it, you wont be using it again.
Once the inspection plate is out you can reach the bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate. you will need to stick a screwdriver or something into the flex plate so it will not rotate when taking the bolts off. Every time you take a bolt off, you will need to rotate the torque converter to get to the next bolt. Once the verter is off, then you can unbolt the flex plate, there should be 8 bolts.

5. Once the flexplate is off you can put in your pilot bearing. Get it in there as far as you can, it should be very close to flush. After that, on goes your flywheel. Make sure it lines up right and you get all the bolts very tight. You cant use the same bolts you took out, so find new flywheel to crank bolts. item #24505092
Put on the clutch disk and use the alinment tool to make sure it stays alined.
Then put on the preasure plate and try and torque the bolts in a star pattern. Make sure you torque the bolts to the right spec!!
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/meatyshells/everything/P7091647.jpg

6.Once all the clutch stuff is in, it's time for the clutch hydrolics (yay!)
start by removing the panel under the steering wheel
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/meatyshells/everything/dash_panel_removal.jpg
Then you can remove the brake pedal. Now this might sound easy but think again. I HIGHLY reccomend removing the drivers seat for more room. To remove the pedals there are a total of 5 bolts. 2 on either side of the steering colum and one above pedal right behind all the wire connectors that attach to the brake pedal. There are 2 push type connectors attached to the pedal, brake light switch and cruise control disengage switch. Disconnect these and unscrew them. Then the brake pedal should come out.
put the brake sensor switches back onto the new pedal assem and put the new pedals in. Make sure the sensors are screwed in the right amount, or the brake lights wont come on.

Meatyshells
01-07-2008, 10:29 PM
7. next you need to mount the clutch master cylinder it goes right here...
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/meatyshells/everything/pedals.jpg
you will need to drill 2 holes and a bigger hole in the middle, i reccomend using a hole saw to do this.
it may take some some forcefull thinking to get the master cylinder in there.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/meatyshells/everything/mastercylinder.jpg
and this is where the clutch reservior mounts
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/meatyshells/everything/reserviormount.jpg

lead the steal braided line down to the back of the engine where the trans will be later.

8. next you will need to cut a hole for the shifter, mine is a little long but it doesnt really matter if you are off by too much. dont start as far back as i did. some trimming might need to be done later so dont worry about getting it perfect.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/meatyshells/everything/P7091648.jpg

Now i am told with the 98+ t-5 transmission, the a4 mounting brackets are the same so you souldnt have to worry. On my car i had a 96-97 t-5
If you look this picture, you can see the bolts from the auto upper trans mount. If you follow this bracket you will find that it is connected to the side of the engine. You will need to remove these and purchuse t-5 mounting brackets.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/meatyshells/P7091644.jpg

the part number for the new brackets are..
RH 12550239
LH 12550233
you will have to find new bolts as well
if you have a 98+ car i reccomend finding a 98+ transmission.
if you have a 96-97 car you will need to do these brackets anyway
9. time to put the manual trany in now. but before you put it in, bolt on the slave cylinder, you will need to remove the bellhousing from the trans in order to get in on. now the trans should bolt back on the same way it came off but, you may need to improvise a little. Make sure you put on your new torque arm bracket before putting the trans in. once the new trans is in put the torque arm back on as well as the driveshaft.

10. you're not done yet, time for the wiring. There are basicly 3 things you need to wire, they are.....

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g285/meatyshells/everything/wires.jpg

you may need extentions to reach the trans and the clutch safty switch.

Hook up all the connections to the trans and make sure you connect the master cylinder line to the slave cylinder. Then add brake fluid to the clutch reservior and bleed the clutch.

11. now add tranny fluid to the trans, you need 3.4 quarts of atf. You can add it through where the shifter mounts. Then attach the shifter use some silicone rtv to seal it. followed by the lower shift boot i used self tapping screws to keep it in place. You should be able to start the car now. Start it and make sure it works. Put it in first and see if the tires rotate. Then put it in reverse and see if the reverse lights come on. Then i put the center console back togeather

12 before taking it off the stands get under the car and listen for any abnormal sounds, like knocking or scraping. If all sounds good, take the car off the stands and take it for a test drive. MAKE SURE YOU GET A METAL RETAINER SO THAT YOUR MASTER CYLINDER ROD DOES NOT POP OFF YOUR CLUTCH PEDAL.

The car is ok to drive but you will need to get your pcm reflashed soon, so dont plan on going around racing just yet.

Hope this helps everyone, and becareful if you attempt this conversion.
If you have any questions, ask away, i will be happy to answer

oltorftd
04-22-2008, 07:20 PM
man this is just what i was looking for. how much difference is there between a piece of crap (ha ha) 3.4 and the 3.8? how much would you estimate this swap cost you?

skimphish
04-22-2008, 08:01 PM
how much did this cost for u to do?

...rallyred
04-22-2008, 08:02 PM
very nice.

triple_l82
04-22-2008, 08:34 PM
Man this is sticky worthy, in my opinion.

That is one good wright up, easily explained and well thought out. Oh and good job too.

oltorftd
04-22-2008, 09:29 PM
Man this is sticky worthy, in my opinion.

That is one good wright up, easily explained and well thought out. Oh and good job too.

x2 i'm surprised no one has posted anything in here before.

Meatyshells
04-25-2008, 03:01 AM
well my auto tranny was starting to crap out, so i could either get a new auto/ rebuilt auto or spend around the same money and put a manual in.
Cost was about 1500 but i used lots of after market parts. Put in a pro 5.0 shifter and spec clutch. I think it could be done for about 1000-1300 depending on what you buy and where you buy it

DroppedSierra00
10-19-2009, 09:06 PM
not bad on the price

triple_l82
11-12-2009, 04:56 PM
You might get some pms from me in the near future meaty. thanks

chazzychaz'00v6
11-12-2009, 06:46 PM
reviving meatyshells' year old threads must be the new thing:shrug:

Dr. Channard
11-12-2009, 07:08 PM
honestly older f-bodies are filling junkyards, you could prob do this with $700 worth of junkyard parts... Hell I've seen pulled manual trannys for less then $150

triple_l82
11-14-2009, 10:44 AM
I'll be doing this for the costs of a clutch. :cool:

01GPGT
11-14-2009, 04:23 PM
not bad on the price

OMG some one used search:worship:

96firephoenix
03-30-2010, 05:06 PM
hey, I realize this is an old thread, but this is a legit question for the OP. or anyone else for that matter.

I've been looking over your plans, and I don't see where you dealt with the cruise control clutch anticipation switch. how did you wire the CCCAS so that the CC would disengage when the clutch is pressed? I'm going to be getting a PCM out of a 97 v6 manual, and the switch operates as an open loop switch, meaning that when the clutch goes down, the switch opens and cuts the circuit. without the switch, the CCCA circuit will always be open and the CC will never engage.

the best that I cna think of is to wire into the brake CC switch and tune the CCCAS out of the PCM

96firephoenix
06-17-2010, 05:30 PM
at risk of offending the OP, I"ll add a disclaimer to this write-up: The pictures are just for rough outline. this will not be the same from year to year.

I just got done putting in my manual, and NONE of the wiring looks like what is shown(diff't colour wires and diff't gauge wires) and the tranny to engine mounts are diff't... the write-up is spot-on, but the pictures were next to worthless to me.